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She grew up in a staunchly Republican family in Houston where lunch at the country club frequented by George and Barbara Bush followed Sunday church services. She was an honors student, earned a master's degree in business and, like her husband, Jeff, made a living as a financial analyst.

Ms. O'Brien was also the kind of mom who rolled her eyes when the kid with a peanut allergy showed up at the birthday party. Then, about two years ago, she fed her youngest child scrambled eggs. The baby's face quickly swelled into a grotesque mask. "What did you spray on her?" she screamed at her other children. Little Tory had a severe food allergy, and Ms. O'Brien's journey had begun.

By late that night, she had designed a universal symbol to identify children with food allergies. She now puts the icon, a green stop sign with an exclamation point, on lunch bags, stickers and even the little charms children use to dress up their Crocs. These products and others are sold on her Web site, AllergyKids.com, which she unveiled, strategically, on Mother's Day in 2006.

The $30,000 Ms. O'Brien made from the products last year is incidental, she said. Working largely from a laptop on her dining room table, she has looked deep into the perplexing world of childhood food allergies and seen a conspiracy that threatens the health of America's children. And, she profoundly believes, it is up to her and parents everywhere to stop it.

Her theory -- that the food supply is being manipulated with additives, genetic modification, hormones and herbicides, causing increases in allergies, autism and other disorders in children -- is not supported by leading researchers or the largest allergy advocacy groups.

That only feeds Ms. O'Brien's conviction that the influence of what she sees as the profit-hungry food industry runs deep. In just a few dizzying steps, she can take you from a box of Kraft macaroni and cheese to Monsanto's genetically modified seeds to Donald H. Rumsfeld, who once ran the company that created the sweetener aspartame.

Through creative use of e-mail, relentless inquiry and a persona carefully crafted around the protective mother archetype, Ms. O'Brien has emerged as a populist hero among parents who troll the Internet for any hint about why their children have food allergies.

"You have changed my life ... my diet ... my health ... my spirit ... and I thank YOU," a father who had lost his teenage daughter to anaphylactic shock told her by e-mail.

Ms. O'Brien encourages people to do what she did: throw out as much nonorganic processed food as you can afford to. Avoid anything genetically modified, artificially created or raised with hormones. Don't eat food with ingredients you can't pronounce.

Once she cleaned out her cupboards, she said, her four children started behaving better. Their health problems, which her doctor attributed to allergies to milk and other foods, cleared up.

"It was absolutely terrifying to unearth this story," she said over lunch at a restaurant in Boulder, Colo. "These big food companies have an intimate relationship with every household in America, and they are making our children sick. I was rocked. You don't want to hear that this has actually happened."

But has it?

Record numbers of parents are heading to doctors concerned that their children are allergic to a long list of foods.

Record numbers of parents are heading to doctors concerned that their children are allergic to a long list of foods. States are passing laws requiring schools to have policies protecting children with food allergies. But no one knows why the number of allergies seems to be on the rise, or even if they are rising as fast as some believe.

Ms. O'Brien and leading allergy researchers agree that few reliable studies on food allergies exist. The best estimates suggest that 4 to 8 percent of young children suffer from them, though the reactions tend to grow less serious and less frequent as children grow older.

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention put the number of deaths linked to food allergies at 12 in 2004, the most recent year for which data are available. However, its statisticians point out that such figures are drawn only from doctors' notations on death certificates.

"It's a soft number, and it might well be an understatement," said Arialdi Miniño, a statistician at the agency's National Center for Health Statistics.

Dr. Elizabeth Gleghorn is the director of pediatric gastroenterology at the Children's Hospital and Research Center in Oakland, Calif. She has been in practice for 20 years, and has noticed a recent increase in eczema, which can indicate food allergies. But she doesn't think food allergies are increasing dramatically.

Often, a child might have intolerance to a food and not a true allergy. But the Internet has afforded more ways for parents to inform themselves and do their own diagnosing, which could add to the popular impression that food allergies are rising at alarming rates, Dr. Gleghorn said.

Many health professionals, though, agree that something is changing. Among the amalgam of theories that weigh the effects of genetics and environment, the hygiene hypothesis intrigues many researchers. It holds that children are being exposed to fewer micro-organisms and, as a result, have weaker immune systems.

"But this alone cannot account for the massive relative increase in food allergy compared with other allergic disease such as asthma," said Dr. Marc E. Rothenberg, the director of allergy and immunology at Cincinnati Children's Hospital Medical Center, the second-largest pediatric research facility in the country.

Could it be that a toxic food environment has made children's immune systems go haywire? It's hard to find an expert in the field who supports Ms. O'Brien's theory. "I don't think it can be proven, so I can't say scientifically one way or the other," Dr. Gleghorn said.

Mix the lack of hard data with an increasingly complex food landscape, and you've got Robyn O'Brien.

"Food allergies just become a focus for a broader fear about the food system," said the author Michael Pollan, a contributor to The New York Times Magazine.

Mr. Pollan, in both "The Omnivore's Dilemma" and his new book, "In Defense of Food" (January, Penguin), shares many of Ms. O'Brien's views about industrialized agriculture. He also has a niece with a peanut allergy. So Ms. O'Brien sent him an e-mail message, and a correspondence began.

Ms. O'Brien took his responses as an endorsement of her work, and then mentioned his support in messages to other people. Mr. Pollan, who said he has no idea if her theories are accurate, asked her to stop telling people he was working with her.

Leveraging brief e-mail exchanges with notable people is an important method that Ms. O'Brien uses to build her universe. The unlikely mix includes members of Robert F. Kennedy Jr.'s staff; Mary Alice Stephenson, a host of "America's Most Smartest Model"; and, recently, Dr. Mehmet Oz, a regular on Oprah Winfrey's show.

"The fact that people like him and Malcolm Gladwell, presidential campaigns, celebs take the time to reply means a lot as it gives me hope that people are still engaged," she said in an e-mail message to this reporter.

While some of her contacts, like Mr. Gladwell, an author and a writer for The New Yorker, don't remember her, the strategy has worked. Nell Newman, who runs the organic arm of Newman's Own products, spoke up on her behalf on the national news. Deborah Koons Garcia, the widow of Jerry Garcia and director of the documentary "The Future of Food," invited her to lunch.

But her biggest asset might be a relentless drive to wind together obscure health theories, blog postings and corporate financial statements. She then posts her analyses on her Web site.

She chides top allergy doctors who are connected to Monsanto, the producer of herbicides and genetically modified seeds. She asserts that the Food Allergy and Anaphylaxis Network, the nation's leading food allergy advocacy group, is tainted by the money it receives from food manufacturers and peanut growers.

Anne Muñoz-Furlong founded the network in 1991 after her daughter was found to have milk and egg allergies. She said the group now has 30,000 members and a $5.6 million budget.

Although Kraft did help the organization start its Web site and other food manufacturing companies and trade groups sponsor some of its programs, that support has amounted to about $100,000. Mrs. Muñoz-Furlong said that she and doctors on her medical board do not believe that genetically modified foods cause food allergies because most children with allergies react to specific foods, like eggs or milk.

And, she said, communicating regularly with industry can help get the word to parents about potential allergens in products, and supporting research to identify causes of allergies helps consumers more than companies.

She also cautioned against taking the advice of people who have no medical training or run Web sites not certified to have reliable medical information. "She's a dot-com," Mrs. Muñoz-Furlong said of Ms. O'Brien. "It's completely different than a dot-org. From the very beginning our intent was education."

(Ms. O'Brien did recently start a nonprofit foundation to support research that is not tied to the food industry.)

On the days when Ms. O'Brien grows discouraged at being David against the Goliath of Big Food, she turns to the people who believe her.

Erin Brockovich, whose brother died of a food allergy years ago, was a legal file clerk who helped land a record judgment against the Pacific Gas and Electric Company for contaminating drinking water. She is an environmental consultant who is popular on the inspirational lecture circuit.

Ms. Brockovich said her new friend does a great job of arming everyday people with facts, so they can take a stand.

"You don't have to be a doctor or a scientist to look into whether our food supply is safe," she said. "Being obsessed doesn't mean she's crazy. Frankly, I think it takes a little bit of being crazy to make a difference in this world."

About Food Allergies

A food allergy is an exaggerated immune response triggered by eggs, peanuts, milk, or some other specific food.

Causes

Normally, your body's immune system defends against potentially harmful substances, such as bacteria, viruses, and toxins. In some people, an immune response is triggered by a substance that is generally harmless, such as a specific food.

The cause of food allergies is not fully understood.

While many people have a food intolerance, food allergies are less common. In a true food allergy, the immune system produces antibodies and histamine in response to the specific food.

Any food can cause an allergic reaction, but a few foods are the main culprits. In children, the most common food allergies are to:

•     Eggs
•     Milk
•     Peanuts
•     Shellfish (shrimp, crab, lobster, snails, clams)
•     Soy
•     Tree nuts
•     Wheat

A food allergy frequently starts in childhood, but it can begin at any age. Fortunately, many children will outgrow their allergy to milk, egg, wheat, and soy by the time they are 5 years old if they avoid the offending foods when they are young. Allergies to peanuts, tree nuts, and shellfish tend to be lifelong.

In older children and adults, the most common food allergies are:

•     Fish
•     Peanuts
•     Shellfish
•     Tree nuts

It is controversial whether food additives -- such as dyes, thickeners, and preservatives -- likely cause a true allergic reaction.

An oral allergy syndrome may occur after eating certain fresh fruits and vegetables. The allergens in these foods are similar to certain pollens. Examples are melon/ragweed pollen and apple/tree pollen.

Many Americans believe they have food allergies, while in reality fewer than 1% have true allergies. Most people's symptoms are caused by intolerances to foods such as:

•     Corn products
•     Cow's milk and dairy products (Lactose intolerance)
•     Wheat and other gluten-containing grains (Celiac disease)

Symptoms

Symptoms usually begin immediately, seldom more than 2 hours after eating. Rarely, the symptoms may begin hours after eating the offending food.

If you develop symptoms shortly after eating a specific food, you may have a food allergy. Key symptoms include hives, hoarse voice, and wheezing. In severe reactions, you may have low blood pressure and blocked airways.

Other symptoms that may occur include:

•     Abdominal pain
•     Angioedema (swelling, especially of the eyelids, face, lips, and tongue)
•     Diarrhea
•     Difficulty swallowing
•     Itching of the mouth, throat, eyes, skin, or any area
•     Light-headedness or fainting
•     Nasal congestion
•     Nausea
•     Runny nose
•     Shortness of breath
•     Stomach cramps
•     Vomiting

Symptoms of oral allergy syndrome:

•     Itchy lips, tongue, and throat
•     Swollen lips (sometimes)

Exams and Tests

A blood or skin test can be done to identify elevated antibody levels (particularly IgE) and confirm that you have an allergy.

Elimination diets involve avoiding the suspected food until the symptoms disappear, then reintroduced to see if allergic reaction develops

Provocation (challenge) testing involves exposing a person to a suspected allergen under controlled circumstances. This may be done in the diet or by breathing in the suspected allergen. This type of test may provoke severe allergic reactions. Challenge testing should only be done by a doctor.

Never try to deliberately cause a reaction or reintroduce a food on your own. These tests should only be performed under the guidance of a health care provider -- especially if your initial reaction was severe.

Treatment

The only proven treatment for a food allergy is to avoid the food. If you suspect you or your child has a food allergy, consult an allergy specialist.

If you have symptoms on only one area of the body (for example, a hive on the chin after eating the specific food), you may not need any treatment. The symptoms will likely go away in a brief time. Antihistamines may relieve the discomfort. Soothing skin creams may provide some relief.

Consult your doctor if you think you have had an allergic reaction to food, even if it is only a local reaction.

Anyone diagnosed with a food allergy should carry (and know how to use) injectable epinephrine at all times. If a person develops any type of serious or whole-body reaction, even hives, after eating the offending food, they should inject the epinephrine, and then go to the nearest hospital or emergency facility, preferably by ambulance. Seek immediate medical attention after injecting epinephrine for a food reaction.

Support Groups

Food Allergy and Anaphylaxis Network -- www.foodallergy.org

Outlook (Prognosis)

Avoiding the offending foods may be easy if the food is uncommon or easily identified. However, success may involve a severely restricted diet and often requires diligent reading of all package ingredients and detailed inquiries when eating away from home.

Asthma, eczema, or other disorders may be triggered or worsened by food allergies.

Possible Complications

A life-threatening complication is anaphylaxis, a severe, whole-body allergic reaction that can result in death. While people with oral allergy syndrome rarely have an anaphylactic reaction, they should ask their doctor whether they need to carry injectable epinephrine.

Asthma, eczema, or other disorders may be triggered or worsened by food allergies.

When to Contact a Medical Professional

• Call your local emergency number, such as 911, if you have any serious or whole-body reactions after eating a food (particularly wheezing or difficulty breathing).
• If your doctor prescribed epinephrine for severe reactions, inject it as soon as possible, even BEFORE calling 911. The sooner you inject the epinephrine, the better.
• Anyone who has had an allergic reaction to a food should be evaluated by an allergy specialist.

Prevention

Breastfeeding may help prevent allergies. (Emphasis added by GentleNurturing.com.) Otherwise, there is no known prevention of food allergies except to delay introducing allergy-causing foods to infants until the gastrointestinal tract has had a chance to mature. The timing for this varies from food to food and from baby to baby.

Once an allergy has developed, carefully avoiding the offending food usually prevents further problems.

References

• American Gastroenterological Association medical position statement: guidelines for the evaluation of food allergies. Gastroenterology. 2001 Mar;120(4):1023-5.
• American College of Allergy, Asthma, & Immunology. Food allergy: a practice parameter. Ann Allergy Asthma Immunol. 2006 Mar;96(3 Suppl 2):S1-68.
• Adkinson NF Jr. Middleton’s Allergy: Principles and Practice. 6th ed. Philadelphia, Pa: Mosby; 2003.